Benaras, also known as Kashi or Varanasi, is one of those places where the morning feels different. Our early boat ride gave us a quiet view of the ghats, the Ganges and the old city waking up.
Quick summary
- Place: Benaras / Varanasi ghats
- Type of visit: Morning boat ride and family travel diary
- Food angle: Mostly travel notes here; the food walk continues in the next Benaras post
- Vegetarian note: Benaras is generally easy for vegetarian food, especially around temple areas and old city lanes
- Vegan note: Vegan choices need checking because many snacks, sweets and chai use ghee or milk

Morning at the Ganges
A morning boat ride on the Ganges feels like food for the soul. The ghats are peaceful, busy, spiritual, imperfect and full of stories at the same time. You see people praying, washing, walking, working and simply watching the day begin.

What stayed with me was the contrast. The city is deeply spiritual, but also very real and busy. The ghats carry devotion, daily life, old architecture and the practical messiness of a living city.

Ghats and old city views
Different ghats have their own names, stories and feel. Some are linked with old royal families or states, while others are more remembered for daily rituals, temples or views from the river.


Family travel notes
The boat ride is a good way to see the ghats without rushing through every lane. With family, it is easier to keep the morning simple: boat ride first, then breakfast in the nearby lanes. The lanes can get crowded, so a slow pace works better.
Vegetarian and vegan notes
This part of our Benaras visit was mostly about the ghats, but vegetarian food was easy to find around the old city. For vegan choices, it is worth asking about ghee, milk, curd and butter, especially in chai, sweets and fried snacks.
Related notes
For the food side of this trip, see the Benaras food notes post covering kachori, jalebi, chai, paan and the old lanes.