After the morning boat ride, we walked into the narrow lanes near the ghats and Kashi Vishwanath area for breakfast. I remember this part of Benaras for the small vegetarian food stops, tea stalls, sweets, paan shops and the constant movement of the old city.
Quick summary
- Place: Benaras / Varanasi old city lanes
- Food tried: Kachori, jalebi, kullhad chai, paan, kulfi falooda and street breakfast snacks
- Nearby travel: BHU temples and Sarnath
- Vegetarian note: Very vegetarian-friendly
- Vegan note: Ask carefully because many items use ghee, curd, milk or butter

Breakfast in the old lanes
Benaras is the kind of place where some of the best food memories come from small, simple shops. Near the Kashi Vishwanath temple area, we found a small kachori shop in the lanes. It did not need a fancy sign; the food and the local crowd said enough.

We also saw hot jalebis being made fresh. This is the kind of breakfast that makes Benaras feel like a food walk, even when you are not following a planned route.

Kullhad chai and paan
For tea lovers, kullhad chai in Benaras has its own charm. Served in an earthen cup, it feels simple and local. We also tried Benarasi paan, which is one of those classic food memories people associate with the city.


Other food and sightseeing notes
We also came across kulfi falooda, chaat stops and morning uttapam stalls that appeared early and disappeared once regular shops opened. After breakfast, the trip continued towards BHU temples and Sarnath.


Vegetarian and vegan notes
Benaras is very easy for vegetarian food. Vegan eating is possible but needs questions, especially around chai, sweets, ghee-fried snacks, butter and curd-based chaat.
Related notes
For the earlier part of this trip, see the Benaras ghats and boat ride post.